Unless you are a surfer its hard to describe that feeling you get when you've driven a while through the bush to get to a favorite surf spot knowing that the wind is blowing in just the right direction, the swell in angling in perfectly over the reef and it's low tide. There is a feeling of anticipation, wondering if the drive has been worth it or if you are going to just have to sun bake, hoping for waves on the next big southerly swell spike, which may possibly be a few weeks away considering it is now spring. So you can guess my intense excitement as I drive out of the forest and over the hill to see a low tide, no wind and little lines peeling in with no one else out.
A perfect combination for sweet little sliders on a quiet Wednesday afternoon.
The first thing you do is put your wettie on, grab your 9'6 single fin from the roof of the car and walk to the waters edge before diving into the shallow water knee paddling out the back close to where a cormorant watches carefully from the rocks at the end of the point.
There is a lull between sets which gives you time to look up toward to white clouds swirling in the sky, hiding the sun momentarily. Below you, under the clear water, is a reef full of hues of green, brown and orange - seaweed mingling with rocks.
As the sun pokes itself out from behind the clouds a perfect set rolls in.
Paddling for the first wave you feel its energy pick you up, transporting you to a place that you crave and need. As you glide along the face of the wave the colors of the ocean mingle together, white water following you as you cross step up the board gracefully moving in time with the ocean. You feel yourself slowing to the pace of nature, connecting with her energy as she gently reminds you why you are here.
Yes, this is the art of longboarding. And this is why I surf.
Ej xxx
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