Oh it has been so long, so long since I have felt the wind catch in my hair as I glide along the face of a perfect wave. So long since the sunshine has touched my face as I look up at the sky while floating in the sea.
There are some things that are worth waiting for.
Anticipation as I drive to the ocean gives me butterflies in my tummy. The smell of the air invites me closer and is that waves I see? Perfect little left hand peelers rolling down the river mouth? Oh yes it is.
I feel a sweet taste envelop me. My heart beats faster with excitement and nervousness at the same time. My friend and I race to get our longboards and rush as we throw our wetsuits on.
Carefully we tread over rocks lining the shoreline and feel exhilirated as we jump onto our boards and into the sea.
Grey clouds swirl overhead in between bursts of sunshine that bring brilliant yellow hues to the surface of the ocean.
We surf for hours. Wave after wave, laughing and smiling with not a care in the world.
We are free.
As we dance with the ocean, we are nothing but we are everything.
I look around and I am blessed.
xxx
